With bobbing yachts on shimmering waters, lush gardens awash with sunshine, and brilliant blue skies, Sydney is the Hollywood star of world cities. Glamorous, adulation-loving yet quietly confident, Sydney’s rock star persona together with its iconic sights alone is enough to make the long trek to Australia worth the effort.
It may not be heaving with history unlike some other mega cities in its league, but Sydney’s attractions extend far beyond the Opera House. Whether it is your first visit or one of many, this guide should help you make the most of your time in Australia’s biggest city.
When to Visit
Sydney is often perceived to be a year round sun and surf sort of destination. However, June to August is the Austral winter and though it hardly ever gets unbearably cold, single-digit temperatures are not uncommon and the water is definitely too cold for swimming.
The New Year’s Eve fireworks is, for most people, the numero uno reason to visit the city. It also happens to be the middle of summer and hence the peak season. The world descends on Sydney at this time and if you are planning your holiday for then be prepared to pay a premium on everything and contend with the crowds.
As with many destinations, the best time to visit Sydney is during the shoulder seasons of autumn (March/April) or spring (October/November). Sydney is never cheap, but prices during this period are comparatively lower and the weather is not likely to get in the way. Rain-free days are not, however, guaranteed at any time of the year, as Sydney rains are not confined to a particular season.
Where to Stay
If you are in Sydney for a short stay, it makes logistical sense to base yourself as close to the sights as possible in Sydney’s Central Business District (CBD). Most high-end hotels (Park Hyatt, Four Seasons, Marriott) boutique properties (QT, Pier One) and top-rated service apartments (Adina, Meriton Suites CBD) are located here and, as a general rule, the closer to the Opera House you get, the more expensive these become.
Central Station and Haymarket are located at the south end of the CBD and, though they may not be the most fetching of neighbourhoods, the hotels in these areas (Rendezvous, Mercure) tend to be more reasonably priced.
To be close to the sights but away from the bustle, Pyrmont just off Darling Harbour (Ovolo 1888, The Darling), is an area to consider. If you are going the AirBnB route, make sure to choose a property that is close to the train line.
What to Do
Harbour Bridge: Going by popularity, this list should’ve opened with the Opera House, but the Harbour Bridge has been around longer and is (to me) a more spectacular feat of human engineering.
Nicknamed the ‘coat hanger’ because of its distinctive arch, the bridge completed in 1932 is little over a kilometre long. There are several ways to experience its expanse – gape at it from ground level or from a ferry boat as you pass under it; walk, run or bike across its length; take a car or train ride; or climb its famed arch. It may not be possible to do all of these in one visit, but at the very minimum, try out the ferry and walking options for two very different perspectives.
Opera House: When the Opera House was inaugurated in 1973, little did anyone think that it would go on to be such an iconic symbol of Australia, almost on par with the kangaroo. As with the Harbour Bridge, the Opera House’s appearance changes with the perspective. A walk all around it helps truly appreciate the uniqueness of its design and the changing spread of its sails.
The best way to experience the structure is undoubtedly from the inside. Some areas are accessible to the public free of cost, but for a proper look inside book a tour or, better still, buy a ticket to one of the shows. It needs to be noted though that there are several venues inside the Opera house and not all of them have the same degree of grandeur. The Concert Hall is the biggest and most opulent of them all.
The Royal Botanic Garden: The 200-year-old Botanic Garden is a 74 acre green space located just behind the Opera House. The garden has spectacular views towards the harbour and is a haven for nature lovers, amblers and contemplators. It houses not just a diverse variety of plants and birds but also themed gardens and cafes. Mrs Maquarie’s Chair, a sandstone bench carved into the rock at Mrs. Macquarie’s Point is the most touted and visited part of the garden. To give your legs a rest, hop on to the Choo Choo Express for a ride taking in the highlights of the garden.
Taronga Zoo: You may not be a fan of zoos, but just the spectacular setting of Taronga justifies a visit. A major part of the fun is in actually getting there. Ferries depart from Circular Quay (the main ferry terminal in Sydney) regularly. There are many ways to get to the zoo entrance from the Taronga ferry terminal but nothing beats taking the Sky Safari cable car (included in the ticket price). As you ride up, the views towards the harbour are only rivalled by that of the elephant enclosure below.
As with most zoos, there are shows aplenty and also ‘Animal Encounters’ that give you a chance to get up close and personal with a variety of cute critters, including koalas. NSW no longer permits cuddling of koalas, but you can get a picture or two taken with them.
The Rocks: This is an atmospheric, history-laden zone that nestles behind the Harbour Bridge. Back in the day, the Rocks had the unsavoury reputation of being the convicts’ side of town. Today it is popular among tourists owing to his historical significance and among locals for its European feel. Getting lost in the Rocks’ maze of laneways, sauntering into its quaint gift shops or getting a schooner at one of its many traditional pubs is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon in Sydney.
Manly: At the far end of Sydney’s harbour, just before its waters merge with the ocean, is the popular suburb of Manly. Manly’s corso or open air walkway lined with innumerable cafes, food stalls and street artists, lends the suburb an air of being permanently on holiday. Manly is reckoned to have some of the best surf beaches and walking trails in Sydney.
Bondi to Coogee Walk: If you have the time for only one beach in Sydney, it is bound to be Bondi. Emblematic of Sydney’s sun and sand lifestyle, Bondi, as many locals will tell you, is far from the best beach in the city. A fact you can discover for yourself as you walk the coastal route from Bondi to Coogee, another beach 6 km away. This spectacular, and mostly easy walk (there are some steep sections) meanders through the stunning bays and beaches of Tamarama, Bronte and Clovelly.
Sydney Ferries: Sydney’s defining feature is its harbour. Taking a ride or two in the ferry is therefore part and parcel of the Sydney experience. For something more leisurely than the ride to Taronga or Manly, hop on to the Parramatta river ferry which is a commuter ferry in the real sense of the term. Alternatively, take the ferry to the quaint suburb of Watsons Bay at the very end of the harbour. Largely off the tourist trail, Watsons Bay is known for its picturesque views towards Manly and the Pacific Ocean.
Darling Harbour: On the western side of Sydney CBD is the entertainment precinct of Darling Harbour. Sydneysiders often view it as an eyesore, but Darling Harbour is nevertheless one of the most lively areas in town post sunset. It is chockfull with restaurants and bars belting out live music most days of the week. The quality of restaurants though is generally better at Barangaroo, the sophisticated new addition to this glitzy hood. If you are in Darling Harbour in the daytime, the Chinese Friendship Garden at its southern end is worth dropping in for a few moments of calm.
Getting Around
Sydney airport is located 9 km from the CBD. There is a direct train line from the airport to the city. It is an expensive ride though and if there’s two or more people in your group, you might be better off taking a taxi instead. The taxi ride to the city should cost between $35 to $50 depending on time of the day and traffic conditions.
If you stay in the CBD, most major sights can easily be accessed by foot. The Harbour Bridge, Opera House and Botanic Gardens are all located around Circular Quay ferry station in the main harbour.
Darling Harbour is a 30 minute walk or 20 minute ferry ride (F4 line) from Circular Quay. The ferry is also what would get you to Manly (F1 line) and Taronga zoo (F2 line).
There is no ferry service to Bondi beach. You could either take bus 380 or 333 from the city to Bondi beach or take the train to Bondi junction station and then transfer to the bus from there. After you are done walking from Bondi to Coogee, bus 373 or M50 will bring you back to the city.
It is worthwhile to get an Opal card from a newsagent or supermarket. You preload the card with credit (minimum $10) and it serves as a ticket on all modes of transport within the city – train, bus, ferry and light rail.
Driving in the city area is not recommended at all. Parking is not just expensive, it is seriously limited too. Uber is very popular in Sydney and often, logistically, the better choice.
Nightlife
From OTT Vegas-esque glamour to pared down edginess, Sydney’s nightlife is hardly short on variety. The stringent lockdown rules introduced in 2014 have reportedly done significant damage to business, though the snaking queues outside some nightclubs might make you think otherwise.
Ivy: At the posher end of establishments, Ivy is sort of a one-stop entertainment complex. Located bang in the middle of the city in George street, it houses places to eat, drink, dance and swim too!
Marquee: Located inside the Star Casino and Entertainment Complex, itself a popular night-time haunt, Marquee is the nightclub to be seen in. Popular with the swish set, Marquee is all strobe lights, pulsating music and high heels.
Jazz Venues: Live music venues are not hard to come by at all in Sydney, but if you have a soft spot for jazz, Venue 505 (Surry Hills) and Foundry 616 (Ultimo) have a varied line-up most weeks.
Opera Bar: Given its location and casual vibe, the Opera Bar is one of most accessible places to get a taste of the city’s nightlife. Located right by the side of the Opera House, this vibrant hangout with stunning views is the city workers’ place of choice for a sundowner.
What/Where to Buy
Australia is a lot of things but a shopper’s paradise it is not. Many of the internationally recognised brands have no presence in Australia and, if they do, cost much more than what they would in the rest of the world.
Perhaps, the best gifts to bring back home are of the edible variety. Tim Tam biscuits, lamingtons, macadamia nuts, honey, nougat, Snicker/Mars/Twix pods, kangaroo/emu jerky are all available to purchase at the airport but are much cheaper if bought at one of the supermarkets in the city – Woolworths, Coles or IGA.
There is no dearth of souvenirs to choose from, be it aboriginal art, boomerangs or just about any other form of Australiana. There are shops galore and their wares are not much different from one another, but the ones in Harbourside mall in Darling Harbour are significantly cheaper than the ones in and around Circular Quay/Opera house.
If you are intent on owning a didgeridoo, you would be better off buying one from the aboriginal art stores rather than a souvenir shop. As someone in the know once pointed out, if not made with the right type of hardwood, you are likely to end up not with a didgeridoo but a didgeridon’t!
Day Trips
Blue Mountains: That a place so remarkably different from Sydney could exist so close to it, needs to be seen to be believed. Located about 100 km from Sydney CBD, the Blue Mountains has waterfalls, caves, hilly little towns and more. Tour companies offer day or overnight tours to the area, but it is easily doable on one’s own. The train ride from Central station to the main town of Katoomba takes a little over two hours. The Three Sisters, Echo Point and the walking trails around them are the main draw. A little further afield, the steep passenger railway of Scenic World offers a short but thrilling ride into the base of the valley. Add to that a wander along Katoomba town and the day is pretty much over. With more time in hand, you could add Leura, Wentworth Falls and Jenolan caves to the itinerary.
Hunter Valley: Australian wines are some of the best New World wines out there and every Australian city has a world class wine-growing region in its backyard. Hunter Valley is Sydney’s. You don’t really need to know your Chardonnays from your Semillons for a fun tasting trip that takes you across vineyards, big and boutique. For obvious reasons, self-drive is not recommended and this trip is best done as part of a tour.
Grand Pacific Drive: This is a classic ‘the journey is the experience’ sort of trip. It is a super scenic drive south of Sydney stretching from the Royal National Park to Wollongong. In addition to the hang gliding hotspot of Stanwell Tops, the route is dotted with stunning lookouts, picnic spots and beaches. But the star attraction is undoubtedly the Sea Cliff Bridge. Driving through it is all well and good but make sure to pull up and enjoy at least a part of the bridge on foot.
Southern Highlands: For a real feel of the countryside, head to the Southern Highlands. A leisurely two hour drive south of Sydney brings you to a region that is far more typical of England than Australia. For lovers of cricket, there is an additional incentive to visit the area. The Bradman Museum located in Bowral is a well curated tribute to the legend and a fabulous chronicle of international cricketing history – engaging enough even for the most lukewarm of cricket fans.
Snowy Mountains: This is one for the winter visitors. Though the Sydney winter is largely mild, the areas around it such as the Blue Mountains see sub-zero temperatures and snow often enough. But for a proper wintry feel with copious amounts of the white stuff, catch a bus to the Snowy Mountains – the highest mountain range in Australia and one of the premier skiing destinations in the country. This is not technically a day trip but if you are seriously short on time and want to visit anyway, Osia Tours runs an economical one day/night trip.
Festivals
New Year’s Eve: Sydney’s NYE fireworks draw people in hordes from the rest of the world. If you are visiting during this time, the primary decision you will have to make is if you are going to pay big money to watch the fireworks without hassle or jostle your way among thousands of people to watch if for free. It is clearly a function of where you are on the price sensitivity – pain sensitivity spectrum.
First, some firework facts. There are two firework displays on 31st December. The 9 pm ‘family fireworks’ and the midnight main fireworks. The family fireworks are a shorter display. They are spectacular but not quite in the same league as the midnight one. Both firework displays take place mainly on the Harbour Bridge, and so when you are looking for a view, it is the Harbour Bridge that you need to have a clear view of and not the Opera house.
If you are going to rough it out, the best vantage points are Campbell’s Cove, Mrs Macquarie’s Point and Dawes Point. However, be aware, that most of these become off limits the moment they reach capacity, which could be as early as noon! The most popular paid ways to see the fireworks are harbour cruises or ticketed parties at the Royal Botanic Gardens. The cruises come in all price ranges and the BYO cruises, which are a lot cheaper than the fully catered ones, are definitely an option to consider.
If you book well in advance, you could grab one of the in-between options such as glamping on Cockatoo Island or buying tickets to the Barangaroo reserve viewing area. If you would rather not pay and yet can’t bear to brave the crowds one of the ‘compromise’ options is Pirrama Park in Pyrmont. The compromise being that you get only a partial view of the bridge. But the pain factor is almost nil and you can show up as late as 11 pm and still get a decent view.
Vivid: When colder climes and shorter days take over, Vivid brightens the city and lightens the mood. Essentially a festival of lights, Vivid takes place every year from late May to early June. Innovative and interactive light displays pop up all over the city, notably along Circular Quay and Darling Harbour. Music and ideas are the subsidiary themes of the festival and there are talks and performances covering a wide range of topics. The biggest crowd-pleaser however is ‘lighting of the sails’ – wherein the sails of the Opera house are illuminated with myriad artistic displays every evening.
Sculpture by the Sea: Come October, part of the Bondi to Coogee track becomes the venue for a one-of-a-kind outdoor sculpture festival. The dramatic cliff faces lend an extra edge to artistic and thought-provoking displays by both local and international artists. By taking sculpture out of art galleries and on to public spaces, this free of cost festival is a great example of inclusive art in practice. It has now established itself firmly on the Sydney social calendar and is one of the top spring activities in the city.
Sydney Festival: Once the hullabaloo of the New Year’s Eve dies down, it is time for Sydneysiders to let their hair down at the Sydney Festival. This vibrant art, music and performance extravaganza is a three-week long festival in January showcasing some of the best artistes from around the world. From conservative to audacious, events span music, theatre, dance, acrobatics and genre-defying acts too.
The smaller festivals in the Sydney calendar include the Writers’ Festival (April – May), Film Festival (June) and the Biennale (March – June of every even year).
Quintessential Sydney Things to Do
Sunday yum cha: A long-standing Sydney ritual, Yum Cha is a tea and dim sum (dumplings) brunch that is an import from the Canton area in China. Though yum cha restaurants (East Ocean, Marigold, Zilver to name a few) serve tea and dumplings pretty much all day, every day, it is the Sunday morning event that is the Sydney tradition. Despite the name, the fare is not limited to just dumplings and a selection of other Cantonese dishes are on offer too.
Beach barbecue: Considered synonymous with life Down Under, the barbecue is the ultimate Aussie cliché. The fun quotient goes up one notch when the setting becomes a scorching sandy beach. Not all beaches in Sydney permit barbecues, as a result of which the ones that do are often packed to the rafters. Your summer holiday in Sydney is incomplete without a beach barbecue and it is worth coaxing your local hosts/friends to organise one to celebrate your visit!
Rock pools: If you want to swim in the sea but are paranoid about rip tides and shark attacks, rock pools are just the thing for you. Simply put, rocks pools are salt water pools that have been built along the beachfront. That means you get all the fun of swimming in the sea, including the buoyancy and the waves, without any of the inherent dangers of the open water. Bronte baths, McIver’s baths (women only) and Wylie’s baths are the some of the easiest to get to pools.
Whale watching: July to October is prime whale watching season in Sydney. These are mainly humpback whales that are journeying back to Antarctica. The pods tend to swim quite close to the shore and can be visible often during coastal walks. However, for a guaranteed sighting it is best to go on one of the many afternoon whale watching tours that take you out into the sea to see the whales up close.
Outdoor cinema: This is a favourite Sydney summer pastime. Newer releases are screened along with old favourites in various outdoor locations (Botanic Garden, Centennial Park) across the city. Over the years, these cinemas have become more and more decadent with some of them offering a full on horizontal viewing experience replete with pillows, blankets and all.
Bush walk: A term you are likely to hear all over Australia, bush walking doesn’t necessarily refer to ambling in the bushes. Any sort of longish walk that takes you away from the pavement and on to a trail qualifies as bush walk. Given Sydney’s extensive coastline and bushland, there is no dearth of bush walking trails. Lane Cove National Park, Royal National Park, Spit to Manly are some of the more popular ones.
Opera on the Harbour: This is an autumn tradition that you probably won’t encounter anywhere else in the world, at least not with these kind of views to boot. Every year, the folks at Handa Opera pick an iconic piece to perform at the Royal Botanic Gardens. The stage is built on the harbour waters and as dusk falls it comes alive with riveting performances set against the backdrop of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge.
Paddling: Sydneysiders are an active lot and people are out running/cycling/skateboarding no matter what the time of the year or the time of the day. In the warmer months paddling gets added to the activities list. It takes varying forms for varied purposes, be it learning the nuances of teamwork on a dragon boat, exploring the harbour on a kayak or activating your core on a stand up paddle.
Special Interests
For the Foodie
As with most cities, the eateries in and around the top tourist spots are best avoided. Kangaroo meat is widely eaten in Australia and in Sydney one of the best places to try it is at the Meat & Wine Company (multiple locations). If you are put off by the idea of an entire steak but yet want to sample the exotic meat, the emu and kangaroo ‘Coat of Arms’ pizza at The Australian Heritage hotel at the Rocks is recommended. It is also a good spot to try some local craft beers.
Coffee is big in Sydney as it is in the rest of Australia. Some of the more feted coffee spots in and around the city area are Gumption at the Strand Arcade, Workshop Espresso at the Galeries and Single Origin at Surry Hills. If you are in Sydney over the weekend, make sure to hit one of brunch hotspots – Bills, Three Blue Ducks, Social Brew Cafe or The Grounds of Alexandria.
If you are a seafood lover, a visit to the Sydney Fish Market is mandatory. From oysters to shell fish and abalone, the perpetually busy stalls sell not just fresh catch but prepared food too.
The Asian food in Sydney is of a very high quality and the best cheap eats are to be found around the China Town area. From Korean barbecue to Malaysian street food, no matter what you choose, you are unlikely to have a bad meal. For more inexpensive meal options, head to one of the street markets – Bondi Farmers Markets, Carriageworks Market and Paddy’s Night Markets are the top picks.
If fine dining is more your scene, Sydney offers an exquisite selection of upmarket restaurants. Australia is not part of the Michelin guide and restaurants are instead awarded ‘hats’ with three hats being the highest honour. With a place in the World’s top 100 restaurants and a location to match (overlooking the Opera house), Quay is reckoned to be the best restaurant in town. Momofuku Seiobo, Bennelong, Testuya and Aria are other top of the line contenders for that special dinner.
For the Adventure Junkie
The Bridge Climb is one of the most highly recommended active things to do in Sydney. It may not have quite the same adrenalin rush as bungee jumping or skydiving but is a one-of-a-kind experience clambering up the arch of the Harbour Bridge. There are many climbs to choose from, but for the best bang for your buck, pick one that commences just before sunset, to see the effect of the changing light on the harbour.
If heights are not your thing but you are a thrill-seeker all the same, have a go at jet boating. Clad in waterproof parkas you are taken on a speed boat for, literally, a spin around the harbour. The spins, interspersed with commentary about the harbour, drench you with salty spray from head to toe. After the shock of the initial dunking, you will find yourself egging on the driver to go on faster, more daring spins.
One of the chief water activities on people’s Sydney to-do list is surfing. Manly, Bondi and further north Long Reef and Palm Beach are some of the most popular surf spots. For surfing novices, there are surf schools galore to choose from but the one in Manly is considered to be the best for absolute beginners.
An open water adventure that brings with it the added bonus of an animal encounter is the Dolphin Swim at Nelson’s Bay. This entails a 3 hour drive from Sydney and an overnight stay too but is well worth the effort. Swimming with dolphins is not really a unique experience as every theme park worth its salt offers some version of it. But the difference here is that you get to swim with wild dolphins out in the open sea. Part of the adventure includes finding a pod, getting them to engage with the boat and then partaking in a wildlife rendezvous unlike no other.
If adventure to you is more about venturing into the unknown rather than testing your physicality, the ghost tour at Q station in Manly will not disappoint. A working quarantine area until the 1980s, Q station’s musty corridors are brimming with tales of violent deaths and malevolent spirits. The ghost tour is a hair-raising exercise in reliving these stories and seeking out some of the central characters!
For the Culture Vulture
The Rocks area in Sydney is one of the oldest parts of the country and there’s a lot of history to be unearthed in this quarter. I Am Free runs a stellar tour of the rocks peppered with interesting anecdotes. If you would prefer a tour with an Aboriginal focus, The Rocks Dreaming Aboriginal Heritage Tour is the one to go for.
For a more immersive Aboriginal experience, head to the Muru Mittigar Aboriginal Heritage Centre in the western suburb of Penrith. This will take up a good part of your day, but the centre offers a variety of interactive activities aimed at familiarising travellers with the legends, food and crafts of indigenous Australians.
From convict life to wildlife, there are museums in Sydney to cater to all sorts of interests. If you are seeking art visit the Museum of Contemporary Art (Australian artists) or the Art Gallery of New South Wales (international artists). But if you were to visit only one museum during your time in the city, you cannot go wrong with the Museum of Sydney. The museum chronicles the aboriginal history and evolution of the city and is a pleasant way to delve into the city’s past.
If it’s street art that rocks your boat, make sure to add May lane in St Peters, Beach wall on Bondi beach, King street on Newtown and the lanes around Redfern and Chippendale to your itinerary.
One of the most interesting remnants of Australia’s penal history is Cockatoo Island. Once used to house prisoners and later deployed as a shipbuilding yard, it is now a popular pit stop for history buffs. Located a short ferry ride away from Circular Quay and Darling Harbour, Cockatoo Island is open throughout the year, but comes into its own during New Year’s Eve (as a viewing point for fireworks) and the Sydney Biennale (as its principal venue).
Street markets have grown to become a common weekend feature in Sydney. The Rocks Markets is one of the most centrally located ones and has an interesting array of artisanal products to choose from. The Paddington Market and Glebe Market (Saturdays) are not quite in the centre of town but are popular haunts for those with a fine eye for arts and crafts. If you have a weakness for all things vintage, the weekend Rozelle Market in the inner-west is a must do.
Ready to plan your Sydney holiday? Get in touch on theuniversaladaptor@gmail.com for a bespoke, curated itinerary.
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